Biomaterials pioneer PACT is redefining eco-friendly leather with Oval — a collagen-based, plastic-free alternative that blends luxury, performance, and sustainability.
In a world racing to replace plastic leather, one Cambridge startup is taking the lead. PACT, a biomaterials company founded in 2020 by Dr Yudí Ding and Niels Ramay, has just secured £16 million in Series A funding to scale up its breakthrough material, Oval — a collagen-based leather alternative that’s reshaping the future of sustainable fashion and materials.
A New Era for Sustainable Leather
Traditional “vegan” leathers made from PVC and other plastics often come with heavy ecological costs — from toxic production processes to limited biodegradability. PACT’s Oval offers a radically cleaner solution. Made from natural, cosmetic-grade collagen enriched with herbal extracts and oils, Oval delivers the look, feel, and flexibility of premium leather, without the environmental baggage.
The company claims Oval uses far less water and produces significantly lower CO₂ emissions than plastic-derived alternatives — an achievement that’s catching the eye of major luxury brands and sustainability leaders alike.
Backed for Global Scale
The new investment round, led by Forbion and HV Capital, will fund a 20-meter pilot production line at PACT’s Cambridge headquarters. This facility will enable roll-to-roll manufacturing — the key to scaling Oval for commercial production and supplying the luxury, footwear, interiors, and automotive industries.
“We’re marrying scientific innovation with design excellence,” says Dr Ding. “The real challenge is not just creating better materials in the lab — it’s scaling them sustainably. Our new pilot line makes that possible.”
What Makes Oval Stand Out
Unlike plant- or fungi-based alternatives, Oval is collagen-based, giving it a natural strength, durability, and tactile luxury that rivals traditional leather. It’s also printable, embossable, and fully color-customizable, making it a designer’s dream material.
Perhaps most importantly, it integrates seamlessly into existing textile manufacturing, meaning brands can adopt it without overhauling their production systems — a key advantage in an industry often resistant to change.
Competing in a Growing Market
PACT joins a competitive field of biomaterial innovators such as Ecovative, Polybion, Tomtex, Gozen, Spiber, and VTT. Yet, its unique collagen foundation and industrial scalability set it apart. With growing consumer demand for sustainable materials, PACT’s timing couldn’t be better.
Redefining Luxury, Responsibly
Looking ahead, PACT plans to accelerate the global rollout of Oval and develop next-generation biomaterials inspired by nature. The company’s mission: to make sustainable, high-performance materials the new standard in luxury fashion and beyond.
As sustainability becomes a non-negotiable for brands and consumers alike, PACT’s vision for a plastic-free, planet-friendly future feels not just innovative — but inevitable.
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